زیبایی شناسی رویکردهای زیست پایدار در طراحی منسوجات

نوع مقاله : مقاله پژوهشی

نویسنده

استادیار گروه طراحی پارچه و لباس، دانشکده هنر، دانشگاه الزهرا (س)، تهران

چکیده

طراحی منسوجات در حوزه­ی مد و لباس، یک عرصه زیبایی­شناسیِ متغیر و مبتنی بر جایگزینی مداوم طراحی­های جدید با هدف بهره­برداریِ اقتصادی است. اما امروزه توجه به حفظ محیط زیست و بهره­برداری از منابع، به یک چالش مهم در مسیر تداوم حیات انسانی بدل شده و در حوزه­ منسوجات، جایگزین نمودن مواد قابل بازیافت، مواد بادوام و استفاده از شیوه­های تولیدِ منطبق بر معیارهای زیست محیطی و ... به ­عنوان جایگزینی برای تولید متداول و به چالشی نوین در حوزه­ی طراحی و زیبایی­شناسی مطرح شده­است. در این راستا، مجموعه­ای از طراحان  برای تحقق این امر، به روش­های نوینی برای طراحی منسوجات همچون بهره­برداری از مواد طبیعی و بازیافتی و استفاده­ی مجدد از منسوجات مستعمل روی آورده­اند. از این­رو، پژوهش حاضر با هدف دستیابی به معیارهای زیبایی­­شناسانه منسوجات زیست پایدار، به بررسی نظریه­های حاکم بر این حوزه پرداخته و با روش توصیفی- تحلیلی و منابع کتابخانه­ای، درصدد ارایه­ی معیارهای منتج از این شیوه­ی طراحی برآمده­است.  بررسی تجارب طراحی­ به این شیوه در دوران اخیر، حاکی از آن است که این راهبرد، با نگرش­های اخلاقی و طرحِ پدیدارشناسانه­ی مفهوم زیبایی، درصدد توسعه­ی تجارب شخصی مصرف کننده از طریق آشنایی­زدایی، دگردیسی ارزش­ها، توجه به ارزش­های فرهنگی و طرد زیباییِ سوداگرایانه است.

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